Riding the waves for better life: Getting on board a challenge

Surfing may be associated with lithe young bodies, sun-bleached locks and a youth culture, but more people are discovering the “stoke” of catching waves in later life.

They say it keeps them in shape and satisfies their compulsion to be at one with nature.

East London surf coaches said more people were taking to the waves later in life and that it was cheaper to pursue than other sports, but cautioned the sport was not as easy as it looked.

“I’ve taught a few older guys who surfed when they were young and then when their kids started surfing they picked it up again,” said Ed Peinke, who owns Nahoon Local Surf Instruction.

Former financial journalist Ted Keenan, who started surfing two months ago at the age of 67, said he had gone from looking like Moby Dick in a wetsuit to a slightly sleeker version of the legendary whale.

“I’ve lost 10kg since I started,” said Keenan, who used to surf as a teenager and now has regular lessons with Springbok surfer Wayne Monk at Yellow Sands.

“My son Jamie is surfing-mad and when he visited from Cape Town we used to fish together, but now we can go surfing instead.”

Keenan said it was easier to surf on longer, more buoyant boards and that his was so large it resembled “a snooker table”. “I am getting better and it’s really good exercise.

“Every time I go in I feel more flexible. When I come out of the water I glow.”

For Cheryl Minkley, 58, who started surfing with her two daughters when she was in her forties, taking up the sport led to the discovery of an exercise she loved and that kept her “properly fit”.

“Surfing is never boring and is always a happy place. Sometimes it’s an adrenaline rush and one is very much part of a great community of people,” said Minkley, who took five months to learn to stand.

“This is probably a record as most people just get going straight away, but I clearly remember the absolute stoke of that moment.”

Pensioner Pierre de Klerk, 59, said although he had a watersports background in wind-surfing, paddle-skiing and diving, starting surfing a few months ago turned out to be “not as easy as it looks”.

“I bought a long board because I weigh nearly 100kg and I’m fit for my age, but it was still tough,” said De Klerk, who took lessons from Peinke.

“The best things in life are free and surfing is one of them.”

Monk said besides Keenan, he was also coaching a 46-year-old woman.

“It is probably the most difficult sport to learn and a hell of a lot more difficult when you are older and less agile, but it is a healthy thing to do.

“Once you have laid out the initial expense for a board and wetsuit there are no membership fees to pay like for some other sports.

“Nahoon beach and Yellow Sands are great for beginners – you just have to get there.” — barbarah@dispatch.co.za

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