Big waves break Andrew Cotton’s back

Big-wave surfer Andrew Cotton did not get away from a huge wave but survived with a broken back.

Later in the day, dramatic footage of the wave showed Cotton getting horrifically axed.

The wave off Praia do Norte at Nazare on the west coast of Portugal breaks so hard that the surfer is exploded out into space and then smacks into flats, at some point breaking his back.

He is then devoured or “rag-dolled” by a furious wall of churning white water.

On his Facebook Page, Cotton commented from hospital: “What can I say, I got a little excited this morning and ending up having possibly the worst wipeout impact-wise of my life.

Thank you to all the lifeguards and crew on the beach who helped stabilise me and do a great spinal recovery. I can’t name everyone but you all did your bit to get me safely to the hospital .

Obviously huge shout out to the team: @mcnamara_for the waves, @hugovau for rescue, company and laughs in the hospital, and @polvo32 for the calls on the radio and friendship.

He said: “I have broken my back but I’ve been really lucky, I’m already looking forward and focusing my energy to get fit and back out there on some more big rollers !” — Mike Loewe

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