OPINION: Reeling in splendour of Wild Coast is guaranteed to be exhilarating

The Wild Coast can be exciting, but it can also be dull. Sometimes the fish bite. Other times they don’t. But if you love the Transkei coast as I do, along with many, many others, you’ll return again and again.

East Londoners and Transkeians are at a particular advantage. After all, it’s just a hop and skip up the road, and we head that way in our vehicles whenever the mood takes us.

Hotels are scattered along the coast, situated in prime spots; cottages, B&B establishments, self-catering accommodation and lots more is on offer too, and the daily charges are very competitive.

Last week I set off with a bunch of friends on what has become an annual event, to do what boys and grown men do – fish, socialise, down a few tipples and generally have a jolly good time.

We hired a spacious and magnificent family cottage with all modern conveniences, situated not more than 50 metres from the shoreline and a kilometre or so from Qora Mouth.

The choice is either hotel or house.

We were filled with anticipation when we arrived mid-morning and it wasn’t long before lines were in the water.

However, conditions for fishing were not ideal. A strong westerly churned up the surf and the water turned a ginger beer colour.

Never mind, we were sure it would clear up in a day or so.

It was unfortunate, too, that puffer/blaasops had moved into shallow water and whatever bait we tried was pecked off the hook in quick time.

Sandprawns were taken in a flash and even with a bit of hardy squid attached to the hook with a prawn tied on top, it didn’t last much longer.

We battled on, trying every trick in the book. Lures and poppers were sure to pick up a kob or leervis.

Jujura River mouth, a few kilometres up the coast looked promising for these. Deep and clear with foam and movement, it seemed a sure bet, but even the experts among us – Dave Badger, Lawrie Timmins, Roger Brent and Keith Snyman – struggled to pick up a bite.

Never mind, there was always the next day.

But even that didn’t bring any joy despite the water clearing up a bit.

The excuse then was that the inshore counter-current was churning up the bottom.

So we tried a bit of river fishing at Jujura.

It looked perfect; clean, clear, warm water, its mouth deep, wide and tidal.

There had to be fish.

As the tide pushed in we expected to see shoals of mullet, but there weren’t many of them either.

A few striped mullet netted were too big and released, while a couple of smaller ones baited up and cast into the river brought zero response.

It was like that five days in a row. Exasperating!

Something had to change and it did. The wind direction turned north-easterly.

But still the fish wouldn’t co-operate. A peck here, a nibble there, but nothing to offer any excitement.

There was plenty of action out at sea, however. Scores of humpback whales passed by on their journey south.

We watched with intent as they leapt out of the water and crashed back into it as though a depth charge had been set off by a navy frigate.

Then they’d swing a fluke about in the air or bury their head in the water and wave their tail.

If you don’t fish, then watch whales.

All in all we had a good time despite lack of fish. Braais were excellent, my curry went down well and we had a few dozen fresh oysters as well. Lekker!

Here’s something for campers and caravanners. Are you aware that there is a private campsite on the East London side of Kei Bridge, behind the old customs and border post buildings? I wasn’t.

I was contacted some weeks back by Leon Wood telling me about his project, so Roger and I stopped off on our way home to have a look.

Leon has installed an excellent ablution block and washing up area, and there are sites with six braai facilities, electricity points and lights close to the river. It’s probably more of a one-night stopover for campers and caravanners passing through than anything else, but there is what looks like a superb 3½-hour off-road 4x4 challenge to the top of nearby Moordenaar’s Kop, also called Morner’s Kop.

Graves at the bottom of the mountain and at the junction of Komga and Kei rivers following a skirmish in 1847, remind one that the area was part of the Frontier War between British soldiers and Xhosa warriors.

Contact Leon at 063208 9054. – robinrosst@gmail.com